Self-organized morphological patterns in coastal dynamics

Abstract

the meaning and significance of self-organization processes in coastal morphodynamics is presented. Two types of coastal self-organized patterns are discussed: crescentic bars in the surf zone and free shoreline sand waves emerging along coastlines where the wave incidence is very oblique to the shore. The coupling between wave breaking and bathymetry in the surf zone is presented as the mechanism which is responsible for crescentic bar formation. Numerical modelling illustrating this process is presented. Shoreline sand waves are described and numerical model results showing their growth and propagation are shown.