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dc.contributor.authorCarrera Gallissà, Enric
dc.contributor.authorCapdevila Juan, Francisco Javier
dc.contributor.authorValldeperas Morell, Josep
dc.contributor.otherUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament d'Enginyeria Tèxtil i Paperera
dc.date.accessioned2017-01-23T11:08:28Z
dc.date.available2018-01-02T01:30:41Z
dc.date.issued2017-01-09
dc.identifier.citationCarrera-Gallissà, E., Capdevila, F., Valldeperas, J. Evaluating drape shape in woven fabrics. "Journal of the Textile Institute", 9 Gener 2017, vol. 108, núm. 3, p. 325-336.
dc.identifier.issn0040-5000
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/2117/99840
dc.description.abstractA search of the scientific literature for the period 1950–2013 retrieved 36 different drape indicators. Despite the large number of indicators currently available, the drape ratio (%DR) continues to be the most widely used, even though it has proved inadequate to explain drape shape. In order to assess their actual performance, the 36 currently existing drape indicators were determined in a total of 37 commercial drapery, woolmaking, shirtmaking and lining woven fabrics spanning a wide range of composition, aerial weight and weave type by using a digital Cusick drape meter. A correlation analysis between indicators, and subsequent suppression of duplicity and collinearity, revealed that seven were mutually correlated. A principal component analysis of the results revealed an underlying structure consisting of three common factors which allowed the indicators to be classified into three different groups according to drape intensity (a), severity (b), and shape symmetry and variability (c). Cluster analysis was additionally used to examine the results in graphical form and exposed three clusters coinciding with the three factors of the underlying structure. A criterion for distinguishing fabrics with an identical drape ratio in terms of drape shape based on sequential application of four of the seven initially selected indicators was developed and experimentally validated
dc.format.extent12 p.
dc.language.isoeng
dc.subjectÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria tèxtil
dc.subject.lcshTextile fabrics
dc.subject.lcshDrapery industry
dc.subject.lcshWoven textiles
dc.subject.otherDrape indicators
dc.subject.otherDrape shape
dc.subject.otherWoven fabrics
dc.subject.otherFactor analysis
dc.subject.otherCluster analysis
dc.titleEvaluating drape shape in woven fabrics
dc.typeArticle
dc.subject.lemacTeixits i tèxtils -- Fabricació -- Innovacions tecnològiques
dc.contributor.groupUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. TECTEX - Grup de Recerca en Tecnologia Tèxtil
dc.contributor.groupUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. SPPT - Superfícies, Productes i Processos Tèxtils
dc.identifier.doi10.1080/00405000.2016.1166804
dc.relation.publisherversionhttp://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/00405000.2016.1166804
dc.rights.accessOpen Access
drac.iddocument19509653
dc.description.versionPostprint (author's final draft)
upcommons.citation.authorCarrera-Gallissà, E., Capdevila, F., Valldeperas, J.
upcommons.citation.publishedtrue
upcommons.citation.publicationNameJournal of the Textile Institute
upcommons.citation.volume108
upcommons.citation.number3
upcommons.citation.startingPage325
upcommons.citation.endingPage336


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