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dc.contributor.authorDionisio António, Sara
dc.contributor.authorvan der Werf, Jebbe
dc.contributor.authorHorstman, Erik
dc.contributor.authorCáceres Rabionet, Iván
dc.contributor.authorAlsina Torrent, José María
dc.contributor.authorvan der Zanden, Joep
dc.contributor.authorHulscher, Suzanne J.M.H.
dc.contributor.otherUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament d'Enginyeria Civil i Ambiental
dc.contributor.otherUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament d’Enginyeria Gràfica i de Disseny
dc.date.accessioned2024-03-06T13:20:56Z
dc.date.available2024-03-06T13:20:56Z
dc.date.issued2023-11-27
dc.identifier.citationDionisio, S. [et al.]. Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves. "Journal of marine science and engineering", 27 Novembre 2023, vol. 11, núm. 12, article 2244.
dc.identifier.issn2077-1312
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/2117/403874
dc.description.abstractThis paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1:15 and 1:25), and three irregular high-energy erosive wave conditions and one low-energy accretive wave condition. The bulk cross-shore net sediment transport was investigated for the total active profile and for the surf and swash zone separately. It is shown that the steep slope is morphologically more active than the gentle slope, with faster and more pronounced morphological changes and larger sediment transport rates. For both slopes, the total and surf zone net sediment transport were offshore-directed for erosive waves and onshore-directed for the accretive wave condition. However, the net swash zone transport for the erosive wave conditions was offshore-directed for the steep slope and onshore-directed for the gentle slope. The direction and magnitude of the total and surf zone sediment transport correlate well with the slope-corrected Dean criterion with increasing offshore-directed sediment transport (erosion) observed for increasing wave energy and bed slope. This relation does not hold for the swash zone sediment transport along the gentle slope, suggesting that swash zone sediment transport processes are not well captured when using a simple predictor such as the (modified) Dean number. Differences in sediment transport in the swash for the different slopes are likely influenced by differences in incoming wave energy, wave–swash interactions and the relative importance of long- and short-waves.
dc.language.isoeng
dc.publisherMultidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI)
dc.rightsAttribution 4.0 International
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.subjectÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia
dc.subject.lcshBeaches -- Morphology
dc.subject.lcshSediment transport
dc.subject.otherBeach morphology
dc.subject.otherSediment transport
dc.subject.otherLarge-scale wave flume experiments
dc.subject.otherSwash zone
dc.subject.otherSurf zone
dc.subject.otherIrregular waves
dc.titleInfluence of beach slope on morphological changes and dediment transport under irregular waves
dc.typeArticle
dc.subject.lemacPlatges -- Morfologia
dc.subject.lemacSediments (Geologia) -- Transport
dc.contributor.groupUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. LIM/UPC - Laboratori d'Enginyeria Marítima
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/jmse11122244
dc.description.peerreviewedPeer Reviewed
dc.relation.publisherversionhttps://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/11/12/2244
dc.rights.accessOpen Access
local.identifier.drac37865543
dc.description.versionPostprint (published version)
local.citation.authorDionisio, S.; van der Werf, J.; Horstman, E.; Caceres, I.; Alsina, J.; van der Zanden, J.; Hulscher, S.
local.citation.publicationNameJournal of marine science and engineering
local.citation.volume11
local.citation.number12, article 2244


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