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dc.contributor.authorCoco, Giovanni
dc.contributor.authorCalvete Manrique, Daniel
dc.contributor.authorRibas Prats, Francesca
dc.contributor.authorde Swart, Huib E.
dc.contributor.authorFalqués Serra, Albert
dc.contributor.otherUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física
dc.date.accessioned2020-05-07T16:18:58Z
dc.date.available2020-05-07T16:18:58Z
dc.date.issued2020-05-06
dc.identifier.citationCoco, G. [et al.]. Emerging crescentic patterns in modelled double sandbar systems under normally incident waves. "Earth surface dynamics", 6 Maig 2020, vol. 8, núm. 2, p. 323-334.
dc.identifier.issn2196-6311
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/2117/186717
dc.description.abstractDouble sandbar systems often characterize the surf zone of wave-dominated beaches and display a variety of poorly explained spatial configurations. Here, we explore the morphodynamic stability of double-barred beaches using a model based on linear stability analysis. Surf zone hydrodynamics are described by coupling depth and wave-averaged conservation of mass and momentum with the wave energy and phase equations, including roller dynamics. A simplified sediment transport formulation relates flow to seabed changes. Under normal wave incidence, an alongshore uniform coast with a cross-shore profile characterized by the presence of two sandbars can be unstable, thereby resulting in the development of crescentic and/or rip channel patterns. Our study demonstrates that sandbar coupling can be either in phase (highs and lows of both sandbars are at the same alongshore position) or out of phase (highs and lows of one sandbar correspond to lows and highs of the other sandbar). In line with observations, results of simulations show a large variability in the possible emerging bottom patterns. Our analysis indicates that modes of which the amplitude of the inner sandbar perturbation is larger than that of the outer sandbar are dominant for large height–depth differences between the two sandbar crests and small offshore wave heights. Patterns related to the outer sandbar dominate for small values of the difference in sandbar depth. For intermediate differences between the two sandbar depths, patterns on both longshore bars appear to be fully coupled (similar growth rates and strongly correlated pattern shapes). For relatively large waves and large depth over the outer sandbar, patterns can also develop close to the shoreline and/or inner surf zone together with patterns in the inner or outer sandbar.
dc.format.extent12 p.
dc.language.isoeng
dc.publisherEuropean Geosciences Union (EGU)
dc.rightsAttribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
dc.subjectÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física
dc.subject.lcshWaves
dc.subject.lcshBeach erosion
dc.subject.lcshSand bars
dc.subject.otherDouble sandbar systems
dc.subject.otherMorphodynamic stability of double-barred beaches
dc.subject.otherLinear stability analysis
dc.titleEmerging crescentic patterns in modelled double sandbar systems under normally incident waves
dc.typeArticle
dc.subject.lemacOnes
dc.subject.lemacPlatges -- Erosió
dc.contributor.groupUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica de Fluids: formació d'estructures i aplicacions geofísiques
dc.identifier.doi10.5194/esurf-8-323-2020
dc.relation.publisherversionhttps://www.earth-surf-dynam.net/8/323/2020/esurf-8-323-2020.html
dc.rights.accessOpen Access
local.identifier.drac28100213
dc.description.versionPostprint (author's final draft)
local.citation.authorCoco, G.; Calvete, D.; Ribas, F.; de Swart, H.; Falques, A.
local.citation.publicationNameEarth surface dynamics
local.citation.volume8
local.citation.number2
local.citation.startingPage323
local.citation.endingPage334


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