On the generation of regular long waves in numerical wave flumes based on the particle finite element method

Abstract

Most of the coastal hydraulic studies in physical and numerical wave flumes (NWF) require the correct generation of nonlinear, long period waves at intermediate and shallow water conditions. In this paper, the ability to generate such long waves in an NWF based on the particle finite element method (PFEM) is analysed. Wavemaker theories based on the Stokes second-order wave theory, cnoidal wave theory and solitary wave theory are implemented in the NWF through piston type paddle boundary conditions. An assessment of the capability and robustness of generation and propagation of long waves in the NWF is carried out. Numerical results are compared to theoretical results and the data from physical tests. Results indicate that regular long waves of permanent form can be generated in an NWF based on the PFEM using the implemented wavemaker theories. However, when choosing a wavemaker theory a compromise has to be made between the target wave conditions and the validity range of each wavemaker theory.