Now showing items 1-17 of 17

    • A field test of a linear stability model for crescentic bars 

      Tiessen, M.C.H.; Leeuwen, S.M.Van; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Dodd, Nicholas (2010-01)
      Article
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      A morphodynamical linear stability analysis is used to predict the natural development of crescentic bed patterns and rip channels. The purpose is to investigate whether this technique, which is useful for understanding ...
    • A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves 

      Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
      Conference lecture
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not ...
    • An idealised study for the long term evolution of crescentic bars 

      Chen, W.L.; Dodd, Nicholas; Tiessen, M.C.H.; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2018-01-01)
      Article
      Open Access
      © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. An idealised study that identifies the mechanisms in the long term evolution of crescentic bar systems in nature is presented. Growth to finite amplitude (i.e., equilibration, sometimes referred to as ...
    • Beach cusps and inner surf zone processes: growth or destruction? A case study of Trafalgar Beach (Cadiz, Spain) 

      Garnier, Roland; Ortega Sánchez, Miguel; Losada, Miguel Ángel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2010-09)
      Article
      Open Access
      Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) ...
    • Linear evolution of a shoreface nourishment 

      Leeuwen, Van S.; Dodd, Nicholas; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2007-05)
      Article
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      The morphological evolution of a shoreface nourishment is investigated by interpreting the nourishment as a linear perturbation of the natural system. The nourishment is projected onto the subset of linear eigenmodes with ...
    • Mechanisms controlling crescentic bar amplitude 

      Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2010-04-15)
      Article
      Open Access
      The formation of crescentic bars from self-organization of an initially straight shore-parallel bar for shore-normal incident waves is simulated with a two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamical model. The aim is to ...
    • Modelling the formation and the long-term behavior of rip channel systems from the deformation of a longshore bar 

      Garnier, Roland; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2008-07)
      Article
      Open Access
      A nonlinear numerical model based on a wave- and depth-averaged shallow water equation solver with wave driver, sediment transport, and bed updating is used to investigate the long-term evolution of rip channel systems ...
    • Morphological development of rip channel systems: normal and near-normal wave incidence 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Leeuwen, S.M.Van (2005-10)
      Article
      Open Access
      The process of formation of a rip channel/crescentic bar system on a straight, sandy coast is examined. A short review of earlier studies is presented. A morphodynamic stability model is then formulated. The resulting model ...
    • On beach cusp formation 

      Dodd, Nicholas; Stoker, A.M.; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Sriariyawat, A. (2008-02)
      Article
      Open Access
      A system of shallow water equations and a bed evolution equation are used to examine the evolution of perturbations on an erodible, initially plane beach subject to normal wave incidence. Both a permeable (under Darcy's ...
    • On the physics behind coastal morphodynamic patterns 

      Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert; de Swart, Huib E.; Dodd, Nicholas; Garnier, Roland Charles; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2016)
      Conference report
      Open Access
    • Physics of nearshore bed pattern formation under regular or random waves 

      Leeuwen, S.M.Van; Dodd, Nicholas; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2006-03)
      Article
      Open Access
      We present an investigation into the growth of nearshore, rhythmic patterns. A comprehensive linear stability model of the surf and shoaling zones is used to examine which type of pattern, transverse or crescentic bar, is ...
    • Rhythmic surf zone bars and morphodynamic self-organization 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas; Garnier, Roland; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Machardy, L.C.; Larroude, P.; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Sancho, F. (2008-07)
      Article
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      Work undertaken in the EU HUMOR project on morphodynamical modelling, particularly with regard to simulating and understanding rhythmic surf zone bars and related morphodynamic self-organization, is presented. These ...
    • The role of the depth-averaged concentration in coastal morphodynamics 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Swart, Huib E. de; Dodd, Nicholas; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Garnier, Roland (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
      Conference lecture
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      In this contribution a discussion is presented on the development of self-organized coastal morphodynamic patterns which are due to the joint action of gradients in the depth-integrated concentration and the flow. This is ...
    • The role of the depth-averaged concentration in coastal morphodynamics 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Swart, Huib E. de; Dodd, Nicholas; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Garnier, Roland (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
      Part of book or chapter of book
      Open Access
      In this contribution a discussion is presented on the development of self-organized coastal morphodynamic patterns which are due to the joint action of gradients in the depth-integrated concentration and the flow. This ...
    • (Un)predictability in rip channel systems 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Coco, G.; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2007-03)
      Article
      Open Access
      Predicting the development of rip channel systems on beaches is relevant for beach safety, nearshore mixing and dispersion, and has been puzzling researchers for decades. Field observations and computer simulations have ...
    • Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth-averaged sediment concentration 

      Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert; de Swart, Huib E.; Dodd, Nicholas; Garnier, Roland Charles; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2015)
      Article
      Open Access
      This review highlights the important role of the depth-averaged sediment concentration (DASC) to understand the formation of a number of coastal morphodynamic features that have an alongshore rhythmic pattern: beach ...
    • Understanding coastal morphodynamics using stability methods 

      Dodd, Nicholas; Blondeaux, P.; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert; Hulscher, S.J.M.H.; Rózynski, G.; Vittori, G. (2003-01)
      Article
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      Stability methods, as they are applied in describing the initiation, growth and long term evolution of morphological features, are discussed. In particular, their use in describing large-scale, long-term rhythmic morphological ...