Now showing items 1-20 of 83

    • A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence 

      Garnier, Roland; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Thiebot, Jerome; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2013-06-06)
      Article
      Open Access
      Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. ...
    • A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Coco, G; Huntley, D A (2000-10)
      Article
      Open Access
      The coupling between topographic irregularities and wave-driven mean water motion in the surf zone is examined. This coupling occurs because the topographic perturbations produce excess gradients in the wave radiation ...
    • A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves 

      Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
      Conference lecture
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not ...
    • A model for sand ridges on the shelf: effect of tidal and steady currents 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Walgreen, M.; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2001-05)
      Article
      Open Access
      The dynamics of sand ridges, as observed on the innershelves and midshelves of various coastal seas, are investigated within the framework of an idealized model. These seabed undulations include shoreface-connected sand ...
    • A new instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2018-06-27)
      Article
      Open Access
      Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is related to bathymetric ...
    • A new shoreline instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2017)
      Conference report
      Open Access
      A new shoreline instability triggered by high-angle waves and leading to sand wave formation is investigated. In contrast with the well-known high angle wave instability, which involves both the surf and shoaling zones and ...
    • A new shoreline instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

      Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2017)
      Conference lecture
      Open Access
      The alongshore wave driven sediment transport can render a rectilinear coastline unstable in case of very oblique wave incidence.
    • Assessing beach and dune erosion and vulnerability under sea level rise: a case study in the Mediterranean Sea 

      Rodríguez Enríquez, Alejandra; Marcos Moreno, Marta; Falqués Serra, Albert; Roelvink, Dano (2019-01-25)
      Article
      Open Access
      In this study, we estimate the shoreline retreat, the vulnerability and the erosion rates of an open beach-dune system under projected sea level rise (SLR) and the action of wind-waves (separately and in combination). The ...
    • Beach cusps and inner surf zone processes: growth or destruction? A case study of Trafalgar Beach (Cadiz, Spain) 

      Garnier, Roland; Ortega Sánchez, Miguel; Losada, Miguel Ángel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2010-09)
      Article
      Open Access
      Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) ...
    • Comparison of modelled nearshore transverse sandbars with field observations 

      Ribas Prats, Francesca; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2010)
      Conference report
      Open Access
    • Continuum and Fluid Mechanics 

      Falqués Serra, Albert (Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, 2008)
      Lecture notes
      Open Access
    • Dynamics of the rhythmic morphology on the low-energy Trabucador beach (Ebro delta) 

      Mujal Colilles, Anna; Grifoll Colls, Manel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert (Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC), 2019)
      Conference report
      Open Access
      Observations of rhythmic morphology along the Trabucador beach are contrasted with two numerical models to unravel the mechanisms of their formation. The Trabucador is a long narrow barrier at the SW side of the Ebro ...
    • Effect of depth-dependent wave stirring on the final amplitude of shoreface-connected sand ridges 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2002-12)
      Article
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      A nonlinear morphodynamic model is analysed to gain fundamental knowledge about the initial growth and long-term behaviour of observed shoreface-connected sand ridges. Themodel describes quasi-steady, depth-averaged flow ...
    • Effect of large angles of wave incidence on beach nourishments 

      Van den Berg, Niels; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2009)
      Conference report
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of instability on beach nourishments. The main objective is finding out how the nourishment of a particular beach must be designed to i) optimize its useful lifetime and ...
    • Effect of surface rollers on the formation crescentic bars 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; de Swart, Huib E.; Falqués Serra, Albert (2011)
      Conference lecture
      Restricted access - publisher's policy
      The effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars/rip channel systems is examined with a morphodynamic model. A linear stability analysis is applied to find the fastest growing bottom patterns that develop ...
    • Effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars: large angles of incidence 

      Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2012)
      Conference lecture
      Open Access
      The formation of crescentic bars is examined using a morphodynamic model based in linear stability analysis. The effect of surface rollers for off-normal wave conditions is examined. The effect of the rollers is to increase ...
    • Emerging crescentic patterns in modelled double sandbar systems under normally incident waves 

      Coco, Giovanni; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; de Swart, Huib E.; Falqués Serra, Albert (European Geosciences Union (EGU), 2020-05-06)
      Article
      Open Access
      Double sandbar systems often characterize the surf zone of wave-dominated beaches and display a variety of poorly explained spatial configurations. Here, we explore the morphodynamic stability of double-barred beaches using ...
    • Formation and destruction events of shoreline sand waves 

      Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2017)
      Conference report
      Open Access
    • Formation and destruction of shoreline sand waves: observations and modelling 

      Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Crews, Eddie (2017)
      Conference report
      Open Access
    • Formation events of shoreline sand waves on a gravel beach 

      Arriaga García, Jaime; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Crews, Eddie (2018-05-04)
      Article
      Open Access
      Kilometric-scale shoreline sand waves (KSSW) have been observed in the north-east flank of the Dungeness Cuspate Foreland (southeastern coast of the UK). They consist of two bumps separated by embayments with a 350–450-m ...