Now showing items 1-20 of 76

  • A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence 

    Garnier, Roland; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Thiebot, Jerome; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2013-06-06)
    Article
    Open Access
    Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. ...
  • A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Coco, G; Huntley, D A (2000-10)
    Article
    Open Access
    The coupling between topographic irregularities and wave-driven mean water motion in the surf zone is examined. This coupling occurs because the topographic perturbations produce excess gradients in the wave radiation ...
  • A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves 

    Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
    Conference lecture
    Restricted access - publisher's policy
    Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not ...
  • A model for sand ridges on the shelf: effect of tidal and steady currents 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Walgreen, M.; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2001-05)
    Article
    Open Access
    The dynamics of sand ridges, as observed on the innershelves and midshelves of various coastal seas, are investigated within the framework of an idealized model. These seabed undulations include shoreface-connected sand ...
  • A new instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2018-06-27)
    Article
    Restricted access - publisher's policy
    Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is related to bathymetric ...
  • A new shoreline instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2017)
    Conference report
    Open Access
    A new shoreline instability triggered by high-angle waves and leading to sand wave formation is investigated. In contrast with the well-known high angle wave instability, which involves both the surf and shoaling zones and ...
  • A new shoreline instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

    Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2017)
    Conference lecture
    Open Access
    The alongshore wave driven sediment transport can render a rectilinear coastline unstable in case of very oblique wave incidence.
  • Beach cusps and inner surf zone processes: growth or destruction? A case study of Trafalgar Beach (Cadiz, Spain) 

    Garnier, Roland; Ortega Sánchez, Miguel; Losada, Miguel Ángel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2010-09)
    Article
    Open Access
    Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) ...
  • Comparison of modelled nearshore transverse sandbars with field observations 

    Ribas Prats, Francesca; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2010)
    Conference report
    Open Access
  • Effect of depth-dependent wave stirring on the final amplitude of shoreface-connected sand ridges 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2002-12)
    Article
    Restricted access - publisher's policy
    A nonlinear morphodynamic model is analysed to gain fundamental knowledge about the initial growth and long-term behaviour of observed shoreface-connected sand ridges. Themodel describes quasi-steady, depth-averaged flow ...
  • Effect of large angles of wave incidence on beach nourishments 

    Van den Berg, Niels; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2009)
    Conference report
    Restricted access - publisher's policy
    The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of instability on beach nourishments. The main objective is finding out how the nourishment of a particular beach must be designed to i) optimize its useful lifetime and ...
  • Effect of surface rollers on the formation crescentic bars 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; de Swart, Huib E.; Falqués Serra, Albert (2011)
    Conference lecture
    Restricted access - publisher's policy
    The effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars/rip channel systems is examined with a morphodynamic model. A linear stability analysis is applied to find the fastest growing bottom patterns that develop ...
  • Effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars: large angles of incidence 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2012)
    Conference lecture
    Open Access
    The formation of crescentic bars is examined using a morphodynamic model based in linear stability analysis. The effect of surface rollers for off-normal wave conditions is examined. The effect of the rollers is to increase ...
  • Formation and destruction events of shoreline sand waves 

    Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2017)
    Conference report
    Open Access
  • Formation and destruction of shoreline sand waves: observations and modelling 

    Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Crews, Eddie (2017)
    Conference report
    Open Access
  • Formation events of shoreline sand waves on a gravel beach 

    Arriaga García, Jaime; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Crews, Eddie (2018-05-04)
    Article
    Restricted access - publisher's policy
    Kilometric-scale shoreline sand waves (KSSW) have been observed in the north-east flank of the Dungeness Cuspate Foreland (southeastern coast of the UK). They consist of two bumps separated by embayments with a 350–450-m ...
  • Formation mechanisms for self-organized kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Idier, Déborah; Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso (2017-05-16)
    Article
    Open Access
    The feedbacks between morphology and waves through sediment transport are investigated as a source of kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves. In particular, the observed sand waves along Srd. Holmslands Tange, Denmark, are ...
  • Generation and nonlinear evolution os shore-oblique/transverse sand bars 

    Garnier, Roland; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Caballeria Suriñach, Miquel (2006-11)
    Article
    Open Access
    The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to produce the formation of shore-transverse or shore-oblique sand bars on an otherwise alongshore uniform beach. In the absence of ...
  • How kilometric sandy shoreline undulations correlate with wave and morphology characteristics: preliminary analysis on the Atlantic coast of Africa 

    Idier, Deborah; Falqués Serra, Albert (2014-04-01)
    Article
    Open Access
    Sandy coasts are characterized by a number of rhythmic patterns like, amongst others, shoreline undulations or sandwaves at a kilometric scale. One hypothesis for their formation is that high angle waves (large incidence ...
  • How observed kilometric sandy shoreline undulations depend on wave climate 

    Idier, Déborah; Falqués Serra, Albert; Garcin, Manuel; Rohmer, Jérémy (2018-05-01)
    Article
    Restricted access - publisher's policy
    Idier, D.; Falqués, A.; Garcin, M., and Rohmer, J., 2018. How observed kilometric sandy shoreline undulations depend on wave climate. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International ...