Ara es mostren els items 1-20 de 82

  • A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence 

    Garnier, Roland; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Thiebot, Jerome; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2013-06-06)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. ...
  • A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Coco, G; Huntley, D A (2000-10)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The coupling between topographic irregularities and wave-driven mean water motion in the surf zone is examined. This coupling occurs because the topographic perturbations produce excess gradients in the wave radiation ...
  • A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves 

    Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not ...
  • A model for sand ridges on the shelf: effect of tidal and steady currents 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Walgreen, M.; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2001-05)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The dynamics of sand ridges, as observed on the innershelves and midshelves of various coastal seas, are investigated within the framework of an idealized model. These seabed undulations include shoreface-connected sand ...
  • A new instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2018-06-27)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is related to bathymetric ...
  • A new shoreline instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2017)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés obert
    A new shoreline instability triggered by high-angle waves and leading to sand wave formation is investigated. In contrast with the well-known high angle wave instability, which involves both the surf and shoaling zones and ...
  • A new shoreline instability mechanism related to high-angle waves 

    Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2017)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés obert
    The alongshore wave driven sediment transport can render a rectilinear coastline unstable in case of very oblique wave incidence.
  • Assessing beach and dune erosion and vulnerability under sea level rise: a case study in the Mediterranean Sea 

    Rodríguez Enríquez, Alejandra; Marcos Moreno, Marta; Falqués Serra, Albert; Roelvink, Dano (2019-01-25)
    Article
    Accés obert
    In this study, we estimate the shoreline retreat, the vulnerability and the erosion rates of an open beach-dune system under projected sea level rise (SLR) and the action of wind-waves (separately and in combination). The ...
  • Beach cusps and inner surf zone processes: growth or destruction? A case study of Trafalgar Beach (Cadiz, Spain) 

    Garnier, Roland; Ortega Sánchez, Miguel; Losada, Miguel Ángel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2010-09)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) ...
  • Comparison of modelled nearshore transverse sandbars with field observations 

    Ribas Prats, Francesca; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2010)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés obert
  • Dynamics of the rhythmic morphology on the low-energy Trabucador beach (Ebro delta) 

    Mujal Colilles, Anna; Grifoll Colls, Manel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert (Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas (CSIC), 2019)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés obert
    Observations of rhythmic morphology along the Trabucador beach are contrasted with two numerical models to unravel the mechanisms of their formation. The Trabucador is a long narrow barrier at the SW side of the Ebro ...
  • Effect of depth-dependent wave stirring on the final amplitude of shoreface-connected sand ridges 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2002-12)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    A nonlinear morphodynamic model is analysed to gain fundamental knowledge about the initial growth and long-term behaviour of observed shoreface-connected sand ridges. Themodel describes quasi-steady, depth-averaged flow ...
  • Effect of large angles of wave incidence on beach nourishments 

    Van den Berg, Niels; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2009)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of instability on beach nourishments. The main objective is finding out how the nourishment of a particular beach must be designed to i) optimize its useful lifetime and ...
  • Effect of surface rollers on the formation crescentic bars 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; de Swart, Huib E.; Falqués Serra, Albert (2011)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    The effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars/rip channel systems is examined with a morphodynamic model. A linear stability analysis is applied to find the fastest growing bottom patterns that develop ...
  • Effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars: large angles of incidence 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2012)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés obert
    The formation of crescentic bars is examined using a morphodynamic model based in linear stability analysis. The effect of surface rollers for off-normal wave conditions is examined. The effect of the rollers is to increase ...
  • Emerging crescentic patterns in modelled double sandbar systems under normally incident waves 

    Coco, Giovanni; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; de Swart, Huib E.; Falqués Serra, Albert (European Geosciences Union (EGU), 2020-05-06)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Double sandbar systems often characterize the surf zone of wave-dominated beaches and display a variety of poorly explained spatial configurations. Here, we explore the morphodynamic stability of double-barred beaches using ...
  • Formation and destruction events of shoreline sand waves 

    Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2017)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés obert
  • Formation and destruction of shoreline sand waves: observations and modelling 

    Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Crews, Eddie (2017)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés obert
  • Formation events of shoreline sand waves on a gravel beach 

    Arriaga García, Jaime; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Crews, Eddie (2018-05-04)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Kilometric-scale shoreline sand waves (KSSW) have been observed in the north-east flank of the Dungeness Cuspate Foreland (southeastern coast of the UK). They consist of two bumps separated by embayments with a 350–450-m ...
  • Formation mechanisms for self-organized kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Idier, Déborah; Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso (2017-05-16)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The feedbacks between morphology and waves through sediment transport are investigated as a source of kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves. In particular, the observed sand waves along Srd. Holmslands Tange, Denmark, are ...