The coupling between topographic irregularities and wave-driven mean water motion in the surf zone is examined. This coupling occurs because the topographic perturbations produce excess gradients in the wave radiation ...

The dynamics of sand ridges, as observed on the innershelves and midshelves of various coastal seas, are investigated within the framework of an idealized model. These seabed undulations include shoreface-connected sand ...

The existing theory for shore-transverse rhythmic sand bars relies on morphodynamic instabilities involving the wave-driven longshore current and rip currents. Intriguingly, transverse finger bars are common on coasts with ...

The alongshore wave driven sediment transport can render a rectilinear coastline unstable in case of very oblique wave incidence.

Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) ...

Observations of rhythmic morphology along the Trabucador beach are contrasted with two numerical models to unravel the mechanisms of their formation. The Trabucador is a long narrow barrier at the SW side of the Ebro ...

The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of instability on beach nourishments. The main objective is finding out how the nourishment of a particular beach must be designed to i) optimize its useful lifetime and ...

The formation of crescentic bars is examined using a morphodynamic model based in linear stability analysis. The effect of surface rollers for off-normal wave conditions is examined. The effect of the rollers is to increase ...