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A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves
dc.contributor.author | Garnier, Roland |
dc.contributor.author | Dodd, Nicholas |
dc.contributor.author | Falqués Serra, Albert |
dc.contributor.author | Calvete Manrique, Daniel |
dc.contributor.other | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física Aplicada |
dc.date.accessioned | 2010-07-26T17:49:58Z |
dc.date.available | 2010-07-26T17:49:58Z |
dc.date.created | 2009 |
dc.date.issued | 2009 |
dc.identifier.citation | Garnier, R. [et al.]. A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves. A: Coastal Dynamics (Conference). "6th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics". Tokyo: World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009, p. 1-13. |
dc.identifier.isbn | 978-981-4282-46-8 |
dc.identifier.uri | http://hdl.handle.net/2117/8405 |
dc.description.abstract | Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not always agree with this model result, thus, understanding the mechanisms seems essential. To this end, the global analysis technique, originally developed to describe the long term behavior of bars (saturation of the bar growth), is also applied here to the initial stage of the bar evolution (formation of the bars). As a result, rip channels grow slower for larger wave angle because of the weakening of the instability mechanism -that only depends on the cross-shore current- rather than the increase of the damping due to the diffusive bedslope transport. |
dc.format.extent | 13 p. |
dc.language.iso | eng |
dc.publisher | World Scientific Publishing Company |
dc.rights | Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain |
dc.rights.uri | http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/ |
dc.subject | Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física |
dc.subject.lcsh | Nonlinear systems |
dc.title | A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves |
dc.type | Conference lecture |
dc.subject.lemac | No-linealitat |
dc.contributor.group | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica No Lineal de Fluids |
dc.identifier.doi | 10.1142/9789814282475_0039 |
dc.rights.access | Restricted access - publisher's policy |
local.identifier.drac | 2599081 |
dc.description.version | Postprint (published version) |
local.citation.author | Garnier, R.; Dodd, N.; Falqués, A.; Calvete, D. |
local.citation.contributor | Coastal Dynamics (Conference) |
local.citation.pubplace | Tokyo |
local.citation.publicationName | 6th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics |
local.citation.startingPage | 1 |
local.citation.endingPage | 13 |