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dc.contributor.authorRibas Prats, Francesca
dc.contributor.authorFalqués Serra, Albert
dc.contributor.authorVan den Berg, Niels
dc.contributor.authorCaballeria Suriñach, Miquel
dc.contributor.otherUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física Aplicada
dc.date.accessioned2015-02-17T12:03:49Z
dc.date.available2016-12-01T01:30:54Z
dc.date.created2013-09
dc.date.issued2013-09
dc.identifier.citationRibas, F. [et al.]. Modeling shoreline sand waves on the coasts of Namibia and Angola. "International journal of sediment research", Setembre 2013, vol. 28, núm. 3, p. 338-348.
dc.identifier.issn1001-6279
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/2117/26388
dc.description.abstractThe southwestern (SW) coast of Africa (Namibia and Angola) features long sandy beaches and a wave climate dominated by energetic swells from the Southsouthwest (SSW), therefore approaching the coast with a very high obliquity. Satellite images reveal that along that coast there are many shoreline sand waves with wavelengths ranging from 2 to 8 km. A more detailed study, including a Fourier analysis of the shoreline position, yields the wavelengths (among this range) with the highest spectral density concentration. Also, it becomes apparent that at least some of the sand waves are dynamically active rather than being controlled by the geological setting. A morphodynamic model is used to test the hypothesis that these sand waves could emerge as free morphodynamic instabilities of the coastline due to the obliquity in wave incidence. It is found that the period of the incident water waves, Tp, is crucial to establish the tendency to stability or instability, instability increasing for decreasing period, whilst there is some discrepancy in the observed periods. Model results for Tp = 7-8 s clearly show the tendency for the coast to develop free sand waves at about 4 km wavelength within a few years, which migrate to the north at rates of 0.2-0.6 km yr-1. For larger Tp or steeper profiles, the coast is stable but sand waves originated by other mechanisms can propagate downdrift with little decay.
dc.format.extent11 p.
dc.language.isoeng
dc.rightsAttribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/
dc.subjectÀrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia
dc.subject.lcshCoast changes
dc.subject.otherHigh angle wave instability
dc.subject.otherLongshore sediment transport
dc.subject.otherShoreline evolution
dc.subject.otherShoreline sand waves
dc.titleModeling shoreline sand waves on the coasts of Namibia and Angola
dc.typeArticle
dc.subject.lemacPlatges--Etosió--Namibia
dc.contributor.groupUniversitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica No Lineal de Fluids
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/S1001-6279(13)60044-X
dc.rights.accessOpen Access
local.identifier.drac12868752
dc.description.versionPostprint (published version)
local.citation.authorRibas, F.; Falques, A.; Van den Berg, N.; Caballería, M.
local.citation.publicationNameInternational journal of sediment research
local.citation.volume28
local.citation.number3
local.citation.startingPage338
local.citation.endingPage348


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