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On the predictability of mid-term cross-shore profile evolution
dc.contributor.author | Fernández Mora, María de los Ángeles |
dc.contributor.author | Calvete Manrique, Daniel |
dc.contributor.author | Falqués Serra, Albert |
dc.contributor.author | Ribas Prats, Francesca |
dc.contributor.author | Idier, Déborah |
dc.contributor.other | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física Aplicada |
dc.date.accessioned | 2015-02-17T11:48:57Z |
dc.date.created | 2013-01-01 |
dc.date.issued | 2013-01-01 |
dc.identifier.citation | Fernandez, M. [et al.]. On the predictability of mid-term cross-shore profile evolution. "Journal of coastal research", 01 Gener 2013, p. 476-481. |
dc.identifier.issn | 0749-0208 |
dc.identifier.uri | http://hdl.handle.net/2117/26386 |
dc.description.abstract | The aim of the present study is to analyse the mid-term beach profile evolution, considering the hypothesis that the alongshore processes can be neglected for the prediction of the mean profile evolution. To this end, a process-based model for the evolution of the cross-shore profile has been used. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, accounting for the effects of wave skewness and asymmetry on sediment transport. Offshore waves and tides conditions and bathymetric profiles measured at the FRF-USACE Duck are used to simulate a mid-term (72 days) onshore sandbar migration event. The model results agree with observed onshore movement and growth of the sandbar due to the inclusion of the intra-wave oscillatory flow with the skewness and asymmetry effects. The best predictions belongs to the averaging of the modelled evolution of individual cross-shore profiles that is better than the evolution of the mean cross-shore profile since.it takes into account the alongshore variability of the cross-shore profiles. These two methods result on better predictions than the individual profiles during the entire event. |
dc.format.extent | 6 p. |
dc.language.iso | eng |
dc.rights | Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain |
dc.rights.uri | http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/ |
dc.subject | Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Enginyeria hidràulica, marítima i sanitària::Ports i costes |
dc.subject.lcsh | Coast changes. |
dc.subject.other | Induced sediment |
dc.subject.other | transport |
dc.subject.other | sandbar migration |
dc.subject.other | wave |
dc.subject.other | nearshore |
dc.subject.other | beach |
dc.subject.other | model |
dc.title | On the predictability of mid-term cross-shore profile evolution |
dc.type | Article |
dc.subject.lemac | Onades -- Investigació |
dc.contributor.group | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica No Lineal de Fluids |
dc.identifier.doi | 10.2112/SI65-081.1 |
dc.rights.access | Restricted access - publisher's policy |
local.identifier.drac | 12717952 |
dc.description.version | Postprint (published version) |
dc.date.lift | 10000-01-01 |
local.citation.author | Fernandez, M.; Calvete, D.; Falques, A.; Ribas, F.; Idier, D. |
local.citation.publicationName | Journal of coastal research |
local.citation.startingPage | 476 |
local.citation.endingPage | 481 |
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