Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
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A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the bathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current and wave height profiles.
CitationRibas, F. [et al.]. Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers. "Journal of marine systems", Octubre 2011, vol. 88, núm. 1, p. 90-101.