Morphological development of rip channel systems: normal and near-normal wave incidence

Abstract

The process of formation of a rip channel/crescentic bar system on a straight, sandy coast is examined. A short review of earlier studies is presented. A morphodynamic stability model is then formulated. The resulting model includes a comprehensive treatment of shoaling and surf zone hydrodynamics, including wave refraction on depth and currents and waves. The sediment transport is modeled using a total load formula. This model is used to study the formation of rip currents and channels on a straight single-barred coast. It is found that this more comprehensive treatment of the dynamics reveals the basic rip cells predicted in earlier studies for normal incidence. Also as before, cell spacings (λ) scale with shore-to-bar crest distance (X b ), while growth rates decrease. The λ increases with offshore wave height (H) up to a saturation value; increasing H also increases instability. Experiments at off-normal wave incidence ( > 0) introduce obliquity into the evolving bed forms, as expected, and λ increases approximately linearly. the e-folding times also increase with . At normal incidence, λ increases weakly with wave period, but at oblique angles, λ decreases. Tests also reveal the presence of forced circulation cells nearer to the shoreline, which carve out bed forms there. The dynamics of these forced cells is illustrated and discussed along with the associated shoreline perturbation. Transverse bars are also discovered. Their dynamics are discussed. Model predictions are also compared with field observations. The relevance of the present approach to predictions of fully developed beach states is also discussed.