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Citació: Idier, D. [et al.]. Shoreline instability under low-angle wave incidence. "Journal of geophysical research", Desembre 2011, vol. 116, núm. F04031, p. 1-12.
Títol: Shoreline instability under low-angle wave incidence
Autor: Idier, Deborah; Falqués Serra, Albert Veure Producció científica UPC; Ruessink, B.G.; Garnier, Roland Veure Producció científica UPC
Data: des-2011
Tipus de document: Article
Resum: The growth of megacusps as shoreline instabilities is investigated by examining the coupling between wave transformation in the shoaling zone, long-shore transport in the surf zone, cross-shore transport, and morphological evolution. This coupling is known to drive a potential positive feedback in case of very oblique wave incidence, leading to an unstable shoreline and the consequent formation of shoreline sandwaves. Here, using a linear stability model based on the one-line concept, we demonstrate that such instabilities can also develop in case of low-angle or shore-normal incidence, under certain conditions (small enough wave height and/or large enough beach slope). The wavelength and growth time scales are much smaller than those of high-angle wave instabilities and are nearly in the range of those of surf zone rhythmic bars, O(102 − 103 m) and O(1 − 10 days), respectively. The feedback mechanism is based on: (1) wave refraction by a shoal (defined as a cross-shore extension of the shoreline perturbation) leading to wave convergence 26 shoreward of it, (2) longshore sediment flux convergence between the shoal and the shoreline, resulting in megacusp formation, and (3) cross-shore sediment flux from the surf to the shoaling zone, feeding the shoal. Even though the present model is based on a crude representation of nearshore dynamics, a comparison of model results with existing 2DH model output and laboratory experiments suggests that the instability mechanism is plausible. Additional work is required to fully assess whether and under which conditions this mechanism exists in nature.
ISSN: 0148-0227
URI: http://hdl.handle.net/2117/15071
DOI: 10.1029/2010JF001894
Versió de l'editor: http://www.agu.org/pubs/crossref/2011/2010JF001894.shtml
Apareix a les col·leccions:Altres. Enviament des de DRAC
DF - Dinàmica No Lineal de Fluids. Articles de revista
Departament de Física Aplicada. Articles de revista
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