Ara es mostren els items 61-80 de 94

    • Nearshore oblique sand bars 

      Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert; Montoto Gayete, Amadeo (American Geophysical Union (AGU), 2003-04)
      Article
      Accés obert
      The coupling between hydrodynamics and the evolving topography in the surf zone has been theoretically examined for oblique wave incidence. It is shown that positive feedback can lead to the initial growth of several types ...
    • Nearshore sand bars 

      Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert; Garnier, Roland Charles (Springer International Publishing, 2017)
      Capítol de llibre
      Accés obert
      This review summarizes the morphological characteristics and dynamics of nearshore sand bars observed in the surf zone of sandy beaches worldwide, with length scales ranging from tens to hundreds of meters and time scales ...
    • Nearshore sand bars on western Mediterranean beaches 

      Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert; Garnier, Roland Charles (Springer International Publishing, 2017)
      Capítol de llibre
      Accés obert
      This contribution reviews the existing observations of nearshore sand bars (including shoreparallel straight and crescentic bars, and transverse bars) on western Mediterranean beaches. In general, their morphological ...
    • Non-Linear modelling of Extreme High-Angle Waves Instability 

      Kakeh Burgada, Nabil; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (European Geosciences Union (EGU), 2019)
      Text en actes de congrés
      Accés obert
    • On the mechanism of wavelength selection of self-organized shoreline sand waves 

      Van den Berg, Niels; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Caballeria Suriñach, Miquel (American Geophysical Union (AGU), 2014-03-26)
      Article
      Accés obert
      Sandy shorelines exposed to very oblique wave incidence can be unstable and develop self-organized shoreline sand waves. Different types of models predict the formation of these sand waves with an initially dominant ...
    • On the physics behind coastal morphodynamic patterns 

      Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert; de Swart, Huib E.; Dodd, Nicholas; Garnier, Roland Charles; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2016)
      Text en actes de congrés
      Accés obert
    • On the predictability of mid-term cross-shore profile evolution 

      Fernández Mora, María de los Ángeles; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Idier, Déborah (2013-01-01)
      Article
      Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
      The aim of the present study is to analyse the mid-term beach profile evolution, considering the hypothesis that the alongshore processes can be neglected for the prediction of the mean profile evolution. To this end, a ...
    • Onshore sandbar migration in the surf zone: new insights into the wave-induced sediment transport mechanisms 

      Fernández Mora, María de los Ángeles; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; de Swart, Huib E. (2015-04-28)
      Article
      Accés obert
      We present a novel process-based morphodynamic model, which includes transport processes due to both velocity and acceleration skewness and a new formulation for intrawave motions, that successfully simulates observations ...
    • Physics of nearshore bed pattern formation under regular or random waves 

      Leeuwen, S.M.Van; Dodd, Nicholas; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2006-03)
      Article
      Accés obert
      We present an investigation into the growth of nearshore, rhythmic patterns. A comprehensive linear stability model of the surf and shoaling zones is used to examine which type of pattern, transverse or crescentic bar, is ...
    • Potential instabilities of Catalan coastline induced by high-angle waves 

      Caballeria Suriñach, Miquel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Van den Berg, Niels (2011)
      Comunicació de congrés
      Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
      The relatively long sandy beaches of El Maresme, and the bimodal wave climate of the Catalan coast, with dominant E-ENE and SSW waves that leads to high angle of incidence, propitiate good conditions for high angle of wave ...
    • Rhythmic morphology in a microtidal low-energy beach 

      Mujal Colilles, Anna; Grifoll Colls, Manel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2019-06)
      Article
      Accés obert
      Observations of rythmic features along the inner side of the Trabucador barrier beach are coupled to two numerical models to unravel the mechanisms of its formation. The Trabucador is a long (6 Km) narrow (125 m) barrier ...
    • Rhythmic surf zone bars and morphodynamic self-organization 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas; Garnier, Roland; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Machardy, L.C.; Larroude, P.; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Sancho, F. (2008-07)
      Article
      Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
      Work undertaken in the EU HUMOR project on morphodynamical modelling, particularly with regard to simulating and understanding rhythmic surf zone bars and related morphodynamic self-organization, is presented. These ...
    • Self-organized kilometer-scale shoreline sand wave generation: sensitivity to model and physical parameters 

      Idier, Déborah; Falqués Serra, Albert; Rohmer, Jérémy; Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso (2017-09-19)
      Article
      Accés obert
      The instability mechanisms for self-organized kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves have been extensively explored by modeling. However, while the assumed bathymetric perturbation associated with the sand wave controls the ...
    • Self-organized morphological patterns in coastal dynamics 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Van den Berg, Niels; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Fernández Mora, Ma. Àngels; Caballeria Suriñach, Miquel (Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Escola Tècnica Superior d'Enginyers de Camins Canals i Ports de Barcelona, 2011-11-16)
      Comunicació de congrés
      Accés obert
      the meaning and significance of self-organization processes in coastal morphodynamics is presented. Two types of coastal self-organized patterns are discussed: crescentic bars in the surf zone and free shoreline sand waves ...
    • Shoreline instability due to very oblique wave incidence: some remarks on the physics 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2011-03)
      Article
      Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
      Previous research has shown that a very oblique wave incidence on a coast may render a rectilinear shoreline unstable. Here, we present some further insight into the physics of such instability. The obliqueness of wave ...
    • Shoreline instability under low-angle wave incidence 

      Idier, Deborah; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ruessink, B.G.; Garnier, Roland (2011-12)
      Article
      Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
      The growth of megacusps as shoreline instabilities is investigated by examining the coupling between wave transformation in the shoaling zone, long-shore transport in the surf zone, cross-shore transport, and morphological ...
    • Shoreline response to sea-level rise according to equilibrium beach profiles 

      Luque Lozano, Pau; Gómez-Pujol, Lluís; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Falqués Serra, Albert; Marcos Moreno, Marta; Orfila, Alejandro (Springer, 2023-09-22)
      Article
      Accés obert
      Shoreline position is a key parameter of a beach state, often used as a descriptor of the response of the system to changes in external forcing, such as sea-level rise. Changes in shoreline position are the result of coupled ...
    • Shoreline sand waves along the catalan coast 

      Falqués Serra, Albert; Caballeria Suriñach, Miquel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Van den Berg, Niels (2013)
      Comunicació de congrés
      Accés obert
      The beach of Calella, north of Barcelona, in the Catalan coast, features a series of shoreline sand waves with wavelengths ranging from 700 to 1400 m that match with similar undulations in the -5 m bathymetric line. ...
    • Shoreline sand waves and beach nourishments 

      Van den Berg, Niels; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (Coastal Engineering Research Council, 2010)
      Text en actes de congrés
      Accés obert
      The effects of the feedback between the changing coastal morphology and the wavefield on the generation and propagation of large scale (O(1-10 km)) shoreline sand waves is examined with a quasi-2D morphodynamic ...
    • Tema 1: Vectors 

      Falqués Serra, Albert (Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, 2023-09-26)
      Apunts
      Accés obert