• On beach cusp formation 

      Dodd, Nicholas; Stoker, A.M.; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Sriariyawat, A. (2008-02)
      Article
      Accés obert
      A system of shallow water equations and a bed evolution equation are used to examine the evolution of perturbations on an erodible, initially plane beach subject to normal wave incidence. Both a permeable (under Darcy's ...