Ara es mostren els items 1-18 de 18

  • A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence 

    Garnier, Roland; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Thiebot, Jerome; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2013-06-06)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. ...
  • A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves 

    Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not ...
  • Beach cusps and inner surf zone processes: growth or destruction? A case study of Trafalgar Beach (Cadiz, Spain) 

    Garnier, Roland; Ortega Sánchez, Miguel; Losada, Miguel Ángel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2010-09)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) ...
  • Effects of sea level rise on the formation and drowning of shoreface-connected sand ridges, a model study 

    Nnafie, Abdel; Swart, Huib E. de; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Garnier, Roland (2014-06-01)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Shoreface-connected sand ridges occur on many storm-dominated inner shelves. These rhythmic features have an along-shelf spacing of 2-10 km, a height of 1-12 m, they evolve on timescales of centuries and they migrate several ...
  • Formation of shoreface-connected sand ridges: effects of rigid-lid approach, quasi-steady approach and wave-topography feedbacks 

    Nnafie, Abdel; de Swart, Huib E.; Garnier, Roland; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2011)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    The initial- and long-term evolution of shoreface-connected sand ridges (sfcr) is investigated with a new nonlinear model (MORFO56) that employs finite difference methods, rather than spectral methods. MORFO56 uses ...
  • Generation and nonlinear evolution os shore-oblique/transverse sand bars 

    Garnier, Roland; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Caballeria Suriñach, Miquel (2006-11)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to produce the formation of shore-transverse or shore-oblique sand bars on an otherwise alongshore uniform beach. In the absence of ...
  • Intertidal finger bars at El Puntal spit, bay of Santander, Spain 

    Garnier, Roland; Medina, Raúl; Pellón, Erica; Falqués Serra, Albert; Turki, Imen (2012)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés obert
    We indentify the presence of an intertidal finger bar system in the swell-protected beaches of El Puntal Spit (Bay of Santander, Spain). The Horus video monitoring system allows us to perform a 2 year survey (June 2008- ...
  • Mechanisms controlling crescentic bar amplitude 

    Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2010-04-15)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The formation of crescentic bars from self-organization of an initially straight shore-parallel bar for shore-normal incident waves is simulated with a two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamical model. The aim is to ...
  • Modeling the response of shoreface-connected sand ridges to sand extraction on an inner shelf 

    Nnafie, abdel; Swart, Huib E. de; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Garnier, Roland (2014-05-01)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Shoreface-connected sand ridges are rhythmic bedforms that occur on many storm-dominated inner shelves. The ridges span several kilometers, are a few meters high, and they evolve on a timescale of centuries. A process-based ...
  • Modelling the formation and the long-term behavior of rip channel systems from the deformation of a longshore bar 

    Garnier, Roland; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2008-07)
    Article
    Accés obert
    A nonlinear numerical model based on a wave- and depth-averaged shallow water equation solver with wave driver, sediment transport, and bed updating is used to investigate the long-term evolution of rip channel systems ...
  • Modelling the formation and the nonlinear evolution of crescentic bars of the Aquitanian coast 

    Garnier, Roland; Bonneton, P.; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2008-07)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Crescentic bars emerge as free instabilities of the coupling between topography and water motion. Their long term behaviour will be studied in the real case of the French Aquitaine beaches by using the 2DH numerical model ...
  • Nonlinear Modelling of surf zone morphodynamical instabilities 

    Garnier, Roland (Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya, 2003-03-21)
    Tesi
    Accés obert
    Esta tesis se dedica en un estudio de estabilidad no lineal de la morfodinàmica de la zona de rompientes de playas de arena. El modelo numérico MORFO55 resuelve las ecuaciones de aguas someras no lineales para la hidrodinámica ...
  • Rhythmic surf zone bars and morphodynamic self-organization 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas; Garnier, Roland; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Machardy, L.C.; Larroude, P.; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Sancho, F. (2008-07)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Work undertaken in the EU HUMOR project on morphodynamical modelling, particularly with regard to simulating and understanding rhythmic surf zone bars and related morphodynamic self-organization, is presented. These ...
  • Shoreline instability under low-angle wave incidence 

    Idier, Deborah; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ruessink, B.G.; Garnier, Roland (2011-12)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    The growth of megacusps as shoreline instabilities is investigated by examining the coupling between wave transformation in the shoaling zone, long-shore transport in the surf zone, cross-shore transport, and morphological ...
  • The influence of wave direction on the morphological response of a double sandbar system 

    Thiebot, Jerome; Idier, Deborah; Garnier, Roland; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ruessink, B.G. (2012-01-01)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Nearshore sandbars are often characterized by three-dimensional bed patterns. To analyze the influence of wave direction on the morphological response of a double sandbar system, this paper uses the 2DH nonlinear surf zone ...
  • The role of the depth-averaged concentration in coastal morphodynamics 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Swart, Huib E. de; Dodd, Nicholas; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Garnier, Roland (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
    Capítol de llibre
    Accés obert
    In this contribution a discussion is presented on the development of self-organized coastal morphodynamic patterns which are due to the joint action of gradients in the depth-integrated concentration and the flow. This ...
  • The role of the depth-averaged concentration in coastal morphodynamics 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Swart, Huib E. de; Dodd, Nicholas; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Garnier, Roland (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    In this contribution a discussion is presented on the development of self-organized coastal morphodynamic patterns which are due to the joint action of gradients in the depth-integrated concentration and the flow. This is ...
  • Vulnerability of sandy coasts to climate variability 

    Idier, Deborah; Castelle, Bruno; Poumadère, Marc; Balouin, Yann; Bohn Bertoldo, Raquel; Bouchette, Fréderic; Boulahya, Faiza; Brivois, Olivier; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Capo, Sylvain; Certain, Raphael; Charles, Elodie; Chateauminois, Eric; Delvallée, Etienne; Falqués Serra, Albert; Fattal, Paul; Garcin, Manuel; Garnier, Roland; Héquette, Arnaud; Larroudé, Philippe; Lecacheux, Sophie; Le Cozannet, Gonéri; Maanan, Mohamed; Mallet, Cyril; Maspataud, Aurélie; Oliveros, Carlos; Paillart, Martin; Parisot, Jean-Paul; Pedreros, Rodrigo; Robin, Nicolas; Robin, Marc; Romieu, Emmanuel; Ruz, Marie-Hélène; Thiebot, Jerome; Vinchon, Charlotte (2013-06-13)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The main objective of the VULSACO (VULnerability of SAndy COasts to climate change and anthropic pressure) project was to investigate present day and potential future vulnerability of sandy coasts at the 2030 horizon, i.e. ...