Ara es mostren els items 1-20 de 65

  • A mechanism for sandbar straightening by oblique wave incidence 

    Garnier, Roland; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Thiebot, Jerome; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2013-06-06)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) currents flowing seaward through rip channels. ...
  • A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Coco, G; Huntley, D A (2000-10)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The coupling between topographic irregularities and wave-driven mean water motion in the surf zone is examined. This coupling occurs because the topographic perturbations produce excess gradients in the wave radiation ...
  • A mechanism inhibiting rip channel formation for oblique waves 

    Garnier, Roland; Dodd, Nicholas; Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    Previous numerical modelling studies based on 2DH morphodynamical model show that oblique waves tend to inhibit the formation of rip channel systems, but the mechanisms were not investigated. Field observations do not ...
  • A model for sand ridges on the shelf: effect of tidal and steady currents 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Walgreen, M.; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2001-05)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The dynamics of sand ridges, as observed on the innershelves and midshelves of various coastal seas, are investigated within the framework of an idealized model. These seabed undulations include shoreface-connected sand ...
  • Beach cusps and inner surf zone processes: growth or destruction? A case study of Trafalgar Beach (Cadiz, Spain) 

    Garnier, Roland; Ortega Sánchez, Miguel; Losada, Miguel Ángel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Dodd, Nicholas (2010-09)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Large beach cusps (LBC, wavelength of ~ 30 m) are intertidal features that can alternately exist in the swash and in the inner surf zone due to tidal sea level changes. They have a larger cross-shore extent (up to 50 m) ...
  • Comparison of modelled nearshore transverse sandbars with field observations 

    Ribas Prats, Francesca; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2010)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés obert
  • Effect of depth-dependent wave stirring on the final amplitude of shoreface-connected sand ridges 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2002-12)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    A nonlinear morphodynamic model is analysed to gain fundamental knowledge about the initial growth and long-term behaviour of observed shoreface-connected sand ridges. Themodel describes quasi-steady, depth-averaged flow ...
  • Effect of large angles of wave incidence on beach nourishments 

    Van den Berg, Niels; Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (2009)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of instability on beach nourishments. The main objective is finding out how the nourishment of a particular beach must be designed to i) optimize its useful lifetime and ...
  • Effect of surface rollers on the formation crescentic bars 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; de Swart, Huib E.; Falqués Serra, Albert (2011)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    The effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars/rip channel systems is examined with a morphodynamic model. A linear stability analysis is applied to find the fastest growing bottom patterns that develop ...
  • Effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars: large angles of incidence 

    Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Swart, Huib E. de; Falqués Serra, Albert (2012)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés obert
    The formation of crescentic bars is examined using a morphodynamic model based in linear stability analysis. The effect of surface rollers for off-normal wave conditions is examined. The effect of the rollers is to increase ...
  • Formation mechanisms for self-organized kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Idier, Déborah; Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso (2017-05-16)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The feedbacks between morphology and waves through sediment transport are investigated as a source of kilometer-scale shoreline sand waves. In particular, the observed sand waves along Srd. Holmslands Tange, Denmark, are ...
  • Generation and nonlinear evolution os shore-oblique/transverse sand bars 

    Garnier, Roland; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Caballeria Suriñach, Miquel (2006-11)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to produce the formation of shore-transverse or shore-oblique sand bars on an otherwise alongshore uniform beach. In the absence of ...
  • How kilometric sandy shoreline undulations correlate with wave and morphology characteristics: preliminary analysis on the Atlantic coast of Africa 

    Idier, Deborah; Falqués Serra, Albert (2014-04-01)
    Article
    Accés obert
    Sandy coasts are characterized by a number of rhythmic patterns like, amongst others, shoreline undulations or sandwaves at a kilometric scale. One hypothesis for their formation is that high angle waves (large incidence ...
  • Image analysis of surf zone hydrodynamics 

    Redondo Apraiz, José Manuel; Falqués Serra, Albert; Rodríguez, A.; Bahía, E.; Sánchez-Arcilla Conejo, Agustín; Gracia Garcia, Vicente; Stive, Marcel J.F. (American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE), 1994)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés obert
  • Intertidal finger bars at El Puntal spit, bay of Santander, Spain 

    Garnier, Roland; Medina, Raúl; Pellón, Erica; Falqués Serra, Albert; Turki, Imen (2012)
    Comunicació de congrés
    Accés obert
    We indentify the presence of an intertidal finger bar system in the swell-protected beaches of El Puntal Spit (Bay of Santander, Spain). The Horus video monitoring system allows us to perform a 2 year survey (June 2008- ...
  • Km-scale shoreline sand waves 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (Springer International Publishing, 2017)
    Capítol de llibre
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    A number of morphodynamic models have been developed to simulate the dynamics of large-scale bedform patterns on the continental shelf. Most of the models are based on linear stability analysis and, therefore, only ...
  • Km-scale shoreline sand waves in the Western Mediterranean Sea 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Ribas Prats, Francesca (Springer International Publishing, 2017)
    Capítol de llibre
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    A number of morphodynamic models have been developed to simulate the dynamics of large-scale bedform patterns on the continental shelf. Most of the models are based on linear stability analysis and, therefore, only ...
  • Km-scale shoreline sand waves: Numerical modelling and observations 

    Arriaga García, Jaime Alonso; Ribas Prats, Francesca; Mariño-Tapia, Ismael; Falqués Serra, Albert (2014)
    Text en actes de congrés
    Accés obert
    Km-scale shoreline sand waves have been studied with a quasi two dimensional model (Q2D-morfo model) and with observations from a populated coastal zone in Yucatán (México) with frequent human interventions. The model ...
  • Large-scale dynamics of sandy coastlines: diffusivity and instability 

    Falqués Serra, Albert; Calvete Manrique, Daniel (2005-03)
    Article
    Accés obert
    The dynamics of small-amplitude perturbations of an otherwise rectilinear coastline due to the wave-driven alongshore sediment transport is examined at large time and length scales (years and kilometers). A linear stability ...
  • Linear evolution of a shoreface nourishment 

    Leeuwen, Van S.; Dodd, Nicholas; Calvete Manrique, Daniel; Falqués Serra, Albert (2007-05)
    Article
    Accés restringit per política de l'editorial
    The morphological evolution of a shoreface nourishment is investigated by interpreting the nourishment as a linear perturbation of the natural system. The nourishment is projected onto the subset of linear eigenmodes with ...